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47 Colvend Street
48 Auldhouse Retail Park, Cogan Street
Unit 2, 99 Woodneuk Road, Darnley Industrial Estate
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460 Pinkston Road, Springburn
281 Clarence Drive Broomhill
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Black Circles Cheap Tyres

Black Circles Cheap Tyres

Car Tyres come in various sizes, and the sizes are shown in a combination of numbers and letters something like this: 195/65 V R 15 79. This number and letter code breaks down like this:

195 – The tyre section width in millimetres.

65 – The aspect ratio in percentage (i.e. the height of the tyre sidewall divided by the width of the tyre).

V – This is the speed rating.

R – This denotes the tyre’s construction – in this case Radial.

15 – This is the diameter of the rim given in inches.

79 – This is the load index

The speed rating can sometimes appear at the end of the code instead of in the middle in which case you’d see something like: 195/65 R 15 91 H. You may also occasionally come across a tyre that doesn’t have an aspect ratio shown, in this case the second number after the / will be missing.

The Speed rating on a tyre must match or exceed the speed of the car. So, if your car can achieve 120 mph then you would want a speed rating that matches or exceeds this figure.

The different letters are denoted thus:

S 180 km/h or 112 mph

T 190 km/h or 118 mph

U 200 km/h or 125 mph

H 210 km/h or 130 mph

V 240 km/h or 149 mph

W(ZR) 270 km/h or 168 mph

Y(ZR) 300 km/h or 186 mph

ZR Above 240 km/h or 149 mph

So with the example we’ve used above, this tyre would be suitable for a car with a maximum speed of 149mph or less, but not for a car of a speed of 200mph or above.

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The Motor Vehicle Tyres Safety Regulations 1994 states that a part worn tyre must not have:

Must not have cuts longer than 25mm – or 10% of the section width of the tyre – which are deep enough to reach the ply or cord;

Must not have lumps, bulges or tears caused by separation or failure of the tyre’s structure;

Must not have any penetration damage that has not been repaired;

Must not have any of the internal or external cord or ply exposed.

Part worn tyres must also be properly marked so that they show all the original markings for their design and type including the load indexes and the speed ratings. They must feature the words ‘part worn’ in capital letters that stand at least 4mm high and this must be marked on in a permanent way that doesn’t cut or brand the tyres.

When you buy a part worn tyre, the tread depth will not be as great as on a new tyre. This means that if you’re driving in the wet a part worn tyre won’t be able to disperse the water as well as a brand new one would. The deeper the tread, the more water can be cleared from the road by your tyres and the less likely you are to aquaplane.

If you have tyres on your car which are barely legal or which are illegal then you will be compromising your own safety and that of any passengers you carry. Obviously if you can afford to buy new tyres this is the best option as these will give you greater safety and will last longer, but if you can’t then buying part worn tyres that are of good quality and meet all the safety requirements is better than using tyres that are unsafe.

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Run Flat Tyres Glasgow

Run flat systems have been around for quite a few years in different forms, and many manufacturers from Dunlop, to Michelin and others have adopted different systems. All these systems though have one thing in mind, keeping the vehicle safe when a puncture occurs.

This sort of tyre isn’t ideal for many people, but under certain circumstances can be incredibly useful. For example, if you are disabled, or elderly you don’t need to worry about having to change a tyre at the side of the road, and also for people who drive on narrow winding roads regularly, or on motorways regularly because it can be particularly hard in these locations to stop and change a tyre safely. Add to the above of course the fact that you have to empty the boot to get to the spare tyre in most cars, and you have even more of an inconvenience or potential safety issue to deal with.

Driving on a tyre which has failed and is not a run flat tyre is not something any driver should really consider doing, there are just too many factors that can contribute to you having an accident. Loss of control of the vehicle – usually caused by the sidewall of the tyre becoming separated from the rim of the wheel being the most dangerous of these as at this point the car and whoever is inside it are at risk from accidents.

A run flat tyre works by having a heavily reinforced sidewall construction. When the tyre is punctured and the air inside it is no longer at pressure and keeping the tyre inflated, a run flat tyre relies on this reinforced sidewall to carry the weight of the vehicle. This is why, after an incident of pressure loss (i.e. a puncture), you should always get a run flat tyre changed rather than repaired as there may be more damage that you can’t see that’s occurred inside the tyre, and if you got another puncture, that tyre might not have enough strength left to support the vehicle a second time.

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If your car doesn’t grip the road as well as normal in wet weather, or if it’s not handling as well, or takes a little longer to stop when you apply the brakes, this could be an indication that your tyres may need changing. Because tyres wear down gradually over time however, it can be difficult to always notice these changes, so checking them regularly for wear is important. If the tread level looks low, and you’re not sure, then take them somewhere and ask them to check them for you.

There are three basic types of tyres – summer tyres, winter tyres and all weather tyres. If you use all weather tyres which many people do, these are designed to be used all year round, they are good for most conditions except heavy snow where braking performance is a little compromised. Summer and Winter tyres are designed to fit the conditions of the season. Summer tyres being designed for temperatures above freezing through spring, summer and autumn. Winter tyres are suitable for use on snow and ice covered roads and they have different groove patterns, and more friction and suppleness at low temperatures. If you use Winter/Summer tyre combination then you will need to judge when to change these tyres over, and that will be very much dependant on the conditions in your area that season. The best thing to do in this instance is to speak to your local garage and follow their advice on when to make the change.

If you drive on a tyre that’s damaged the tyre can become punctured or ruptured, so if you discover damage change the tyre immediately to avoid safety issues, and also issues where the wheel may become damaged.

If you find that one or more tyres has abnormal wear on it – for example due to having to brake suddenly, then get the tyre checked, and change it if necessary. Don’t forget that to be legal and safe the tyre wear should be over 1.6mm around the full circumference of the tyre and across three quarters of the width of it.

Tyre pressure is important. Keeping your tyres inflated to the correct pressure will greatly improve the life of your tyres, and make your car safer to drive, and will even improve your fuel economy.

Pressure within your tyres is measured by calculating the amount of air that’s been pumped into the inner lining of your tyres. This is measured in PSI (pounds force), or BAR pressure. All car handbooks will have the details of the recommended pressure levels for your tyres. A lot of petrol stations will have air pumps where you can put extra air into your tyres either freely or for a very small fee. Normally these will also have charts by them so you can look your car up and check the pressure there. Also some cars have the details under the fuel cap as well.

When you do check your tyre pressure, you should do this when the tyres are cold – i.e. when you’ve not driven any real distance, as the pressure increases after the car has been run due to the air within the tyre warming up. Reading your tyre pressure half way through a journey can result in you getting the pressure quite wrong. (Don’t forget to check the spare tyre too!).

If you’re driving with a heavier load than normal – for example when you’re going on holiday perhaps, then you should check your car’s handbook and increase the tyre pressure as the manufacturer recommends. Don’t forget however to reduce the pressure again after you’ve removed the heavy load!

Each wheel has to be balanced so that no vibration occurs and so that the treat is in constant contact with the road. If you have an unbalanced wheel and jack it up, when you spin the wheel it will always stop at the same point with the heavier part of the imbalance at the bottom of the wheel. On the road, that imbalance can actually lift the tyre from it’s contact with the road surface creating a vibration that if severe you can feel through the steering wheel which can cause steering and breaking problems, as well as high pressure stress in the hub assemblies, suspension and steering which will result in excessive mechanical wear, higher fuel consumption, and greater and often uneven tyre wear. If the imbalance is left unattended for longer, then damage to the suspension, wheel bearings and steering components will usually occur.

Wheel balancing is done with a computerised machine which spins the wheel and detects any imbalance in the wheel and tyre. Small lead weights are then added at appropriate points around the wheel so that it spins smoothly once more.

Whenever you get a tyre replaced or fix a puncture in a tyre, it’s essential that you have your wheels rebalanced. Many garages will include a rebalance as part of the cost of changing a tyre for you.

One sign that your wheels might need balancing is feeling vibrations through your steering wheel at certain speeds, although if you’re getting vibration at all speeds this could point to a problem worse than just the need for a wheel balance. If you’re uncertain, or have changed a wheel yourself, then take the car to the garage and get it checked, it’s an inexpensive job, and generally will save you money in the long run.

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A lot of tyre manufacturers mould in a ‘tread bar’ or tread depth indicator at 1.6mm what this does is help you to judge whether your tyre is legal or not, or if it’s getting close to the legal limit. There are normally at least 6 tread bars – they’re small ribs across the bottom of the main tread grooves and if you can see the tread depth indicator is now at the top of the grove then you’re about to become illegal and you should get yourself new tyres pretty quickly. If you’re wearing away or have worn away the tread bar then you are driving on illegal tyres and should get off the road and get them changed now!

Despite the legal limit being 1.6mm most tyre manufacturers suggest that tyres should be changed when they’ve approximately 3mm of tread left. Anything below this, and they feel that you are compromising the optimum safety of the car and tyre. Remember, your tyres are your only contact with the road, and they affect the steering, acceleration and braking of your vehicle which means that you need good tyres to drive safely.

You can buy simple gauges which will allow you to measure your own tyre tread depth, they’re not expensive, and it’s not a bad idea to have one so that you can keep an eye on your tyre wear.

If you keep a spare tyre in your car which most people do, this tyre must also have a tread on it which is legal and safe if you need to use it.